Canyon of the Ancients & Hovenweep
First thing to know about Canyon of the Ancients National Monument, is it's not single place. It's many sites — 6,000 at last count — across 170,000 acres, managed by the Bureau of Land Management. We explored a fair number, but most were not accessible to us, as we lack a four-wheel drive vehicle.
Contrasting the experience in Mesa Verde, these are sites that one explores on one's own. We rarely came across more than a few other people as we hiked through Sand Canyon or visited Lowry Pueblo. As such, we had the thrill of taking a break on a large rock face and unexpectedly seeing two cliff dwellings directly across from us.
Sand Canyon Area
There are three main hikes here, which are also open to mountain bikes and horses. There are many marked and unmarked pueblos...surrounded by high rock faces. It makes for very toasty hiking.
Hovenweep
Our first lesson in visiting Hovenweep is that it's at a lower elevation than where we were living and most of the place we visited. It's hot! We camped here one night to allow us to do some sunrise and sunset hiking. It was a bit steamy, but the small campground was pleasant and only about a third full. Which is unique for the area, in our experience.
Hovenweep, which became a national monument in 1923, was once home to over 2,500 ancient pueblo people, between 1200 and 1300. We only explored the sites around the Visitor's Center, which did not require a high clearance vehicle. However, there were a lot of them to see along the 2 mile, Little Ruin trail. The extra bonus is that dogs are allowed on these trails!